The engine oil give more problem at low temperature than hydraulic oil. In engine oil has small clearance to pressure fill like rod bearing, cam bearing some thing in engine pre lube by last run engine and don't need pressure lube. In hydraulic system there no pressure lube points like engine so cold starts are not bad for hydraulic system, but gear pump can add extra load on engine for cold starts lower weight engine oil take care that problem, your temp right above doing any thing to hydraulic's other than driving out to work.
Only way to warm hydraulic oil with Main relief, any equipment this is standard, but different on different equipment on your tractor. Warming hydraulic fluid, transaxle in neutral go to high range apply parking brake, press down with bucket, put block before and behind a tire so tractor want move. Do this out side because exhaust fumes you may have curb an not need blocks, half throttle hold level in direction say of curb until 30 seconds pass release level let hot oil circulate with cold oil repeat holding lever several times and oil temp rise to temp you decide okay warm. The temp oil will get to 40 degrees fast this way and engine be warm both be ready for work.

 

This shouldn't be in restorations.
[Correct - moved to main forum]

Heres what I do, and I believe the manual states similar actions.

I throttle it to approx. 1/3 power, and with the transaxle in neutral, I work the pedal while its in forward for a minute or two, then do the same in reverse. The tractor should be running at least 5 minutes or so prior to you trying to drive it. Obviously, the colder it is, the longer the warm up needs to be. 5 minutes would be if it were barely freezing, if its more like 10-20 degrees, then id wait more like 10 minutes.

The grade of oil your using will also come into play. You can use 5w-20 for cold climates, I use 15w-40 year round. Thinner oils heat quicker. Just make sure you switch back to a thicker blend when warmer weather hits.

 

Only way to warm hydraulic oil with Main relief, any equipment this is standard, but different on different equipment on your tractor. Warming hydraulic fluid, transaxle in neutral go to high range apply parking brake, press down with bucket, put block before and behind a tire so tractor want move. Do this out side because exhaust fumes you may have curb an not need blocks, half throttle hold level in direction say of curb until 30 seconds pass release level let hot oil circulate with cold oil repeat holding lever several times and oil temp rise to temp you decide okay warm. The temp oil will get to 40 degrees fast this way and engine be warm both be ready for work.

Just trying to understand...are you saying heat the oil by stalling the tractor drive in high range with parking brake applied up against a curb, against the pressure relief valve?

 

hi im new to hydraulic drive tractors, (6018) so whats the best way to warm them up prior to operation ? i read somwhere that the best way is to leave it in neutral and then push the go pedal down to warm up the hydro fluid ? does that sound right ? im talkin temps normaly in the 20s sometimes down to 10. should i install a pressure gauge to tell when they fluid is ok to go ? thanks

Basically that's what the manual states to do (for my 4020).

For blowing snow, I start the tractor (transmission in neutral), throttle to a around 1/4 to 1/3, flow control full open, travel control slowly to full forward, and walk away to go shovel my small deck. Usually that takes me 10-15 minutes. About halfway through the deck, I go back and put the TC in neutral, then slowly engage until full reverse, and then finish the deck.

Seems to work to get it going.

 

In a hydraulic circuit, when energy is put into the system, that energy either does useful work, or is converted to heat. I think what Gator is saying is that on big equipment, operators intentionally put the system into relief to accelerate the heating. Of course, commercial operators want to get their equipment up to operating temps as quickly as possible. In our case, a little patience pays off.

For the loaders, after starting the engine, put the transaxle in neutral and the direction control lever to full forward (or reverse). Press down on the speed control pedal and the hydraulic fluid circulates through the system (and spins the drive motor). You might weight or clamp the pedal so you can walk away while the system warms up for a few minutes. Once warmed up, cycle the lift arms, bucket, and 3-point.

Once you are comfortable with how your tractor sounds and feels, you can tell by the pump whine (or jerky response to control inputs) when it is not warmed up properly.

 

I have found that simply applying the go pedal selector in forward (or travel control) and the transaxle in neutral is plenty to warm up on average temps of 10-30 F. Warm at around 1/4 throttle for both the engine warm up and hydraulics. Maybe 3-5 minutes. Works fine for me.

I highly endorse the "lots of fresh air" recommendation ... outside or a wide open space.


On the last 6018 I had, there was need to install a case drain port to run the chipper/shredder. That's a really simple install on a 6000/7000 due to that large return hose routing up the LH side of the engine. There is a cost effective T fitting from Ingersoll to start the job.

I took that opportunity to also install a low pressure gauge in a T on the case drain line. I located it just behind the left foot rest, where you can see straight down inboard of the fender on a loader. That gauge let me monitor the return side pressures, both for filtration and temp/viscosity. Also for any excessive return on the case drain line.

When cold, it would start up around 20-25 PSI on the return side (this location has just the filter between the gage and the tank). Quickly drops to 10-15 as the oil warms. Runs as low as 5 PSI when working it and getting hot. Of course, the pressures also were dependent on engine speed (pump flow) ... these readings were generally up around 3/4-full throttle.

Certainly not a necessary add on gage ... but I liked the feature and the information it provided, so I'll be doing the same with the 7020 when I get around to adding a case drain there (soon).

Brian
Salem Power Equipment

 

ty all, got it -start up - 1/4 throttle - trans in neutral - direction control in forward then reverse - just a lil confused - should the go pedal be depressed ? or no ? also would it make sense to block the airflow to the hydro fluid cooler for winter ? oh and like that guage idea as a way to check temp/pressure ty

 

ty all, got it -start up - 1/4 throttle - trans in neutral - direction control in forward then reverse - just a lil confused - should the go pedal be depressed ? or no ? also would it make sense to block the airflow to the hydro fluid cooler for winter ? oh and like that guage idea as a way to check temp/pressure ty

Yes, with the loader the foot pedal should be depressed. This puts a little bit of work in to the rear axle drive motor and aids the warm up. If not convenient ... no harm no foul. Just circulating the oil for a few minutes puts some heat in to it also ....

Brian

 

also would it make sense to block the airflow to the hydro fluid cooler for winter ?

Just my opinion, I wouldn't block the airflow to any type of cooler unless I had some kind of gauge to monitor the oil temperature first.

Big trucks that have radiator blocks on them during the winter for example, all have temperature gauges to monitor cooling system temp.